Maison Francis Kurkdjian at Harvey NicholsPerfumer Francis Kurkdjian was the nostril behind Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male.Anyone who was round within the Nineties will bear in mind this ubiquitous fragrance, in its blue striped torso bottle.Sign up to our day by day newsletterParis-based 52-year-old Kurkdjian designed this, and a few different blockbusters, again in his twenties, earlier than launching his eponymous fragrance home, Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Although the posh model has been round since 2009, their sensible concession, by a golden arch, on the bottom ground of Edinburgh’s Harvey Nichols is simply two-years-old.I’m proven spherical by fragrance knowledgeable, Eva Carlo, although the specialists at the counter are all the time right here to assist.Although I do personal a bottle of 2014 launch, A La Rose, which is a dewy floral, I’m not that acquainted with the opposite perfumes, in their cubic glass bottles.However, I’ve just lately heard individuals going loopy for Baccarat Rouge 540. It was launched in 2005, however is having a second after making a storm on social media, together with TikTok. Carlo has no thought why it ought to have a renaissance now. I’ve a whiff of this bestseller, which was initially commissioned by the crystal producer, and was impressed by one of many chandeliers and its signature crimson crystal element. There are notes of saffron, bitter almond and ambergris (they use the artificial stuff lately, quite than the whale by-product).It’s very lovely, and refined.Among many others, I additionally strive Kurkdjian’s Oud. Apparently, the resinous oud – in any other case referred to as agarwood – is massively in style, and each fragrance home has to have a model lately. He initially wasn’t eager to create a style on demand, however I’m glad he did, as a result of their Oud is attractive. The smokey-ness makes me consider whisky. This is a Scotland-in-winter form of scent.Other attractive launches embrace Amyris, which options iris root and the eponymous wooden, which is sourced from Jamaica. According to Carlo, it comprises a lot oil that folks fishing at night time will mild a department and use it as a torch – therefore its various identify, sea torchwood. Also, there’s the unisex Aqua Universalis – an “ethereal and recent” mix of bergamot, musk and citrus. Kurkdjian created this based mostly on the crisp white shirt he wears daily. It’s Carlos’s favorite.There’s additionally the Gentle Fluidity duo, based mostly on a non-binary idea. The one within the gold bottle is named light Fluidity, and the silver one is Gentle fluidity. Originally they had been going to name them Gender Fluidity, however a graphic designer made a fortuitous spello.Both include the identical substances, however in several quantities. First I just like the silver one greatest, then the gold, then vice versa.Their latest launch is the Aqua Cologne Forte vary of three summery perfumes. My favorite is Aqua Vitae Cologne Forte, which is available in an apricot-coloured bottle and is musky and honeyed, like heat pores and skin after sunbathing.Whether you had been ever a fan of Le Male or not, comply with your nostril to this concession.A message from the Editor:Thank you for studying this text. We’re extra reliant in your assist than ever because the shift in shopper habits caused by coronavirus impacts our advertisers.If you have not already, please contemplate supporting our trusted, fact-checked journalism by taking out a digital subscription.
https://www.scotsman.com/way of life/purchasing/baccarat-rouge-540s-maison-francis-kurkdjian-invites-us-to-their-fragrance-counter-at-harvey-nichols-edinburgh-3716243
