Before 2019, there have been nearly no references of solid cosmetics in supermarkets. Three years later, the scenario has modified lots, with an increase in worth of +17%. This enhance will be defined by the arrival of beauty giants on this phase, like Garnier, Dop (L’Oréal), Nature Box (Henkel), but in addition Nivea (Beiersdorf), Sanex (Colgate-Palmolive), or Corinne de Farme (Sarbec).
“As a number one model in our trade, it appeared important to assist democratize this new, extra accountable beauty gesture and help our shoppers in adopting it”, explains Stéphanie Borri, General Manager of Garnier France.
“7.5% of French folks bought solid cosmetics not less than as soon as in 2021, in comparison with 1% in 2019,” provides Anaïs Dupuy, Expert Hygiene Beauty at Kantar. In France, the solid cosmetics turnover reaches 85.5 million euros now (from November 2021 to October 2022), and the market share quantities to about 1.5% and 0.2%, unique of cleaning soap (supply: IRI for all grocery store channels – unique of toothpaste and roll-on deodorants).
Haircare: the perfect recruiting answer
“Solid hair merchandise signify barely lower than 13% in phrases of market share. They are adopted by face care merchandise, with 2.1%, and preceded by cleaning soap, with 83.4%,” says Valérie Locci, Key Account Manager at IRI. “If cleaning soap is excluded, haircare is clearly a market driver, in comparison with different, area of interest classes in supermarkets, like shaving, tub/bathe merchandise, and deodorants”, she provides.
Still, these figures ought to be certified, for the reason that institute excludes “inexperienced roll-on deodorants (cardboard, refillable)” from their calculations, so their weight is “most likely under-represented”.
This urge for food for solid merchandise is confirmed by Anaïs Dupuy: “Haircare merchandise, in specific shampoo, have been nice recruiters in 2021, with +6.5 factors, in comparison with +2.4 factors in 2019. Consumers now dedicate 25% of their international shampoo price range to solid shampoo, which simply reveals how this new gesture is turning into a shopping for sample”.
A phase in search of innovation
And but, solid cosmetics haven’t all the time had such a very good fame. “They are not handy, they make no foam, they don’t clear nicely, they make the hair really feel like straw, and many others.,” explains Laure Favre, co-founder [1] of the brand new model beaudy. And but, in accordance with her, the demand for clear and accountable solid cosmetics is extraordinarily excessive – therefore the significance of progressive formulation.
Is this the top of solid shampoos floating in their cups after use? Brands have rivalled with ingenuity to make the solid product gesture playful and accessible: suction cups to carry the merchandise, nets to utterly end them, fairly waterproof journey kits… Everything ought to be well-thought-out to seduce shoppers and make them really feel like testing them.
And it really works! “50% of our turnover is now achieved with repurchase”, says Sarah Pouchet, co-founder of Unbottled, which launched a solid waterproof make-up remover just a few weeks in the past, together with reusable wipes.
“Brands’ enthusiasm for solid cosmetics confirms they’ve grown conscious of the ecological urgency: that is conveyed by their decreasing the usage of plastic in packaging, but in addition of water, which may signify as much as 80% in a beauty system”, emphasizes Sophie Lauret, the founding father of Comme Avant. “However, I’m a bit much less enthusiastic concerning the composition, though we have now all the time been irreproachable. We based mostly our model on this important worth: a clear composition to protect the entire household’s well being,” she provides.
A extra democratic providing
“Many manufacturers have been rising on all channels, and solid cosmetics have discovered their very own place in supermarkets. The normal public is steadily seizing this chance, which makes the phase develop,” sums up Valérie Locci, IRI.
The profile of solid shampoo consumers is definitely removed from the same old Parisians with a “Bobo model”. “It is near that of liquid shampoo consumers, whether or not in phrases of sociodemographics, age, or social class,” explains Anaïs Dupuy.
The manufacturers surveyed verify fairly broad a shopper profile: primarily girls between 30 and 50 who buy merchandise for themselves and their very own household, nearly in all places throughout France. “At Lamazuna, we have now a fan base which accounts for about 20% of our turnover. However, we have now observed shoppers have been fluctuating since earlier than 2019, which may undoubtedly be defined by the abundance of at the moment’s providing. They really feel like testing a number of manufacturers, which is barely logical,” explains Laëtitia Van De Walle, the founding father of the solid cosmetics pioneer model in France.
In 2022, Garnier Ultradoux even launched a brand new solid reference, this time for youngsters: an apricot and cotton flower shampoo. “Offering a solid vary with no plastic waste was an extra step in our dedication for greener, extra sustainable beauty. It can be a solution to our shoppers’ expectations,” explains Stéphanie Borri. She revealed to us that there are ongoing initiatives for the Fructis model.
“The proven fact that this new galenic type is more and more current in supermarkets, whereas till now, it had often been out there in natural shops, from the selective distribution, and on-line, reminds of the craze for natural merchandise just a few years in the past,” foresees Anaïs Dupuy.
Distribution can be diversifying in metropolis centres. After becoming a member of the Sephora community in early 2022, Unbottled has simply opened a primary retailer in the third arrondissement of Paris, 60 Rue Vieille du Temple. This selection was rigorously thought out. According to Sarah Pouchet, it may be defined by two parameters: e-commerce hidden prices and shoppers’ want for in-store experiences.
“Today, to get visitors on-line, you’ll want to spend an incredible amount of cash. To me, there’s a reverse motion slowly rising in this sector, which consists in reviewing one’s imaginative and prescient of retail to get again to bodily shops. In addition, opposite to what can usually be heard, shoppers don’t really feel like staying behind their screens. They do like visiting shops to get a singular expertise, and that’s what we offer them with this new store: testing this new gesture associated to solid cosmetics consumption, earlier than shopping for it”, explains the creator. Of course, in the meantime, the model takes care of its e-commerce prospects. Next 12 months, they’ll launch the web site in a number of languages to nearly move the French borders.
This knowledge appears fairly encouraging for a really younger market which has solely began to diversify!
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