Welcome to Fragrance Friday, the place every week we’ll be maintaining you abreast of the latest and most iconic releases within the dynamic world of males’s fragrances. Born out of the need to showcase one of the crucial ignored, but versatile, components of any discerning man’s type this weekly column will provide help to finesse your individual signature scent.
The new candle collaboration from Balmain and Trudon caught my consideration most final week as I needed to take a break from solely taking a look at perfumes. Fragrance is such a broad class relating to type, that it additionally extends to dwelling and workplace design. Olfactory structure is an important a part of curating your individual areas in any case, and it’s one many males don’t pay close to sufficient consideration to.
This week, let’s veer again to perfumes however as an alternative of taking a look at one thing new, right here’s a contemporary basic that I’ve been re-visiting loads currently – Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather.
British fragrance home Penhaligon’s has been inseparable from the artwork of perfumery since its inception again within the 1860s. Though its moderately haute picture wasn’t modernised and made extra accessible till 2015 when the corporate was bought by Spanish-born perfume and vogue giants Puig, who additionally personal L’Artisan Parfumeur and the licences for each Christian Louboutin and Comme des Garçons perfumes.
The previous decade, then, has been all about higher advertising and marketing and extra tales behind destination-inspired perfumes akin to this one. Penhaligon’s Trade Route sequence and the 2015 launch of Halfeti, which stays the model’s most unassailable signature and is without doubt one of the best-selling area of interest fragrances of our time. So irrepressible was its recognition that it’s the one fragrance that has gone on to outline the brand new period of Penhaligon’s and could be smelled in nearly each one of many model’s boutiques world wide.
Much like when a movie turns into tremendous profitable for a studio, you simply know that the temptation of capitalising on the IP is simply an excessive amount of. There’s going to be a minimum of one sequel, for higher or for worse. Halfeti then flowed onto two totally different flankers, which have been each launched in 2020.
First, there was Halfeti Leather which purchased again high-end perfumer Christian Provenzano, who dealt with the primary one and deliberately got down to deliver a darker and juicier perspective to the perfume profile. Next was Halfeti Cedar, however I haven’t smelt that one but.
For these interested by the place the identify got here from, Halfeti is a small half-drowned village that sits on the sting of the Euphrates river in Turkey. Despite the city’s difficult historical past, it’s maybe greatest identified to the remainder of the world for its harvest of the legendary black rose, which apparently solely grows within the space and first attracted consideration when Penhaligon’s despatched a staff of pharmacists and professors to extract samples from locals to be used in perfumery.
Despite that, rose isn’t probably the most substantial word in Halfeti or its two flankers. In Halfeti Leather, although, it’s a bit extra distinguished and enhanced by the juicier, virtually syrupy profile that skews removed from the unique with its personal distinctive signature.
When Provenzano seemingly has accomplished is dialled again the brisker, drier and extra citrus-forward traits of the unique and introduced a profile amped as much as embody darker fruits like prune, plum and dried cherries.
Consider it the big-bodied Shiraz of contemporary luxurious perfumes.
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As with Halfeti correct, Halfeti Leather is a posh scent that has flicks loads of elements at you earlier than deciding on these extra masculine, bittersweet woods of leather-based, oud and sandalwood. On the highest you’ve obtained bergamot – a continuing for all three Halfetis – with a slight undertone of grapefruit for a really gourmand opening. That a lot is barely strengthened as soon as these darkish fruits are intensified by a extremely fragrant dried plum accord that picks up within the center, sprinkled and heightened by nutmeg, cumin, cinnamon, violet, jasmine and – in the direction of the top – a few of that floral rose.
Nutmeg, specifically, helps Halfeti Leather keep aligned with the unique. If the word wasn’t included, I’d think about that prune word could be a bit too juicy for my liking.
Anyone who needed a bit extra of that rose could be disillusioned. Shortly after the center makes its approach ahead, it’s adopted by that stronger base of leather-based, oud, incense, cedar and patchouli. Leather and patchouli are the 2 massive gamers right here – if you would like extra cedar, go for Halfeti Cedar – so what you’ll get is a pleasant and sensual closing present that’s aided vastly by all that vanilla and the lingering plum notes.
Very jam-like and juicy, Halfeti Leather could be a divisive scent for a lot of, however fortunately it’s actually not that robust when in comparison with one thing like Penhaligon’s Babylon – which can be from the Trade Routes sequence and is certainly one of my favorite perfumes from my assortment with all its spicy vanilla. Hence, Halfeti Leather would work properly as a base fragrance as properly must you wish to layer on one thing that aligns with these darker fruits however takes it in a brisker path.
I haven’t but performed round with Halfeti Leather as a layering fragrance, however it’s fairly heavy so I’d think about one thing gentle would work. It’s virtually tempting to make use of one thing like Tom Ford Lost Cherry or Tom Ford Bitter Peach on high, but it surely may simply as simply make me scent just like the Paul Rudd in Anchorman of the BH workplace.
Top Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, prune, inexperienced notes, armoise, cypress.Middle Notes: Cumin, nutmeg, violet, saffron, rose, jasmine, muguet.Base Notes: Leather, oud, amber, resins, tonka, vanilla, sandalwood.
Penhaligon’s Halfeti Leather retails in Australia at $358 for 100 ml bottle.
https://www.bosshunting.com.au/type/grooming/penhaligons-halfeti-leather/
