Welcome to Fragrance Friday, the place every week we’ll be maintaining you abreast of the latest and most iconic releases within the dynamic world of males’s fragrances. Born out of the will to showcase one of the crucial ignored, but versatile, parts of any discerning man’s model this weekly column will show you how to finesse your individual signature scent.
Tom Ford perfumes at all times appear to flitter out and in of my radar each few months. Reliable favourites like Black Orchid, Noir De Noir, Oud Wood and Neroli Portofino are at all times a vital a part of any assortment. And even extremely divisive gourmand scents like Lost Cherry and Bitter Peach are glorious in case you layer them correctly (Black Orchid + Bitter Peach. Thank me later). But on this sport, there are simply so many thrilling new releases that one of many business’s most iconic names at all times tends to get a bit overshadowed.
Tom Ford is hoping to reassert his agency grip on the world of perfume together with his newest Private Blend expression, Ebene Fume (Ébène Fumé if you wish to be particular), which has just lately launched in Australia and is already touted as one of many man’s most interesting in years.
And whereas I might select Tom Ford Black Orchid or Tom Ford Oud Wood over this on most days, it truly is a worthwhile funding. Formulated as an Amber Woody perfume, Ebene Fume (translated as “smoked ebony”) is, as anticipated, a bit punchy in the case of the value tag, however does provide a really attention-grabbing primarily resinous profile in return.
On the highest, you’ve received incense and palo santo smoke coming by instantly, main quickly to black pepper and frivolously spiced violet leaf. I’m getting a slight impression of espresso beans from all of it, very frivolously roasted with a caramelised character which probably comes from the resins within the base. The bridge is the place many of the attention-grabbing, shifting away from the roasted nostril of the opening present and shifting onto leather-based, labdanum, cade oil, papyrus and rose.
That quite busy mid-show lays the groundwork for the African ebony wooden that Ebene Fume’s id is centred round. I’m going to go forward and assume the rose is the rationale all this leather-bombing is lighter than I might have anticipated from Tom Ford, properly balancing the bridge to make it rather more impactful when these luxurious woods and resins actually take maintain in the course of the dry-down.
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The drawback is, to get all this, I wanted to have my nostril fairly near my pores and skin. But that’s an issue I’ve had with Tom Ford perfumes on the whole, except for stronger expressions just like the aforementioned Tom Ford Black Orchid and naturally the very divisive Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous. The projection simply doesn’t match as much as the value, and the longevity isn’t a lot to jot down dwelling about both.
While selecting to stability Tom Ford’s love of smokey leather-based and resin with the subtleties of components like violet leaf and rose is undoubtedly a wise alternative, and pays off when this fragrance is at its peak, I simply can’t assist however need one thing heavier.
I’ve little question that Ebene Fume might be launched as a stronger focus additional down the road, seeing because the profile Tom Ford’s in-house perfumers have achieved is outstanding: attractive, alluring, seductive – all these perfume buzzwords which are normally credited to Tom Ford’s work.
Due to it being quite mild, I’d be extra more likely to recommend this, in the identical approach, I might Tom Ford Lost Cherry and Tom Ford Bitter Peach. In its present kind, this launch is best approached as a layering fragrance, which is nice if you wish to experiment to search out your individual signature scent.
Top notes: Incense, palo santo smoke, black pepper, violet leafMiddle notes: Leather, papyrus, labdanum, cade oil, roseBase notes: Resins, ebony tree, guaiac wooden
Tom Ford Ebene Fume Eau de Parfum is now obtainable in Australia at $360 for a 50 ml bottle.