When his try to safe an internship on the Paris Opera Ballet School was unsuccessful, Francis Kurkdjian turned to his different ardour of perfumery.
Since then, the world has turn into his stage all the identical – as ‘the nostril’ behind among the most iconic fragrances of our time.
He may be well-known for over 40 fragrances created for among the largest trend and beauty manufacturers on the earth – the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Burberry, Versace, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, Narciso Rodriguez and Elizabeth Arden – however in the event you ask grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian what his proudest achievement is, he doesn’t hesitate for a second. “My olfactory installations. The largest to this point was within the gardens of Versailles, the place I created outside scented candles, scented cleaning soap bubbles and scented water for the fountains.”
Francis Kurkdjian. Image: François Roelants
Expressing his craft by way of creativity – and in probably the most unique and sudden methods – is on the core of Francis Kurkdjian’s being. “A artistic thoughts is crucial requirement for changing into an excellent perfumer. The relaxation is about working exhausting, and coaching even tougher,” says the person who as soon as recreated the (final) Queen of France, Marie Antoinette’s favorite fragrance. In 2003, Francis additionally partnered with modern French artist Sophie Calle to create the scent of cash, and in 2014, for the Nuit Blanche modern artwork competition in Paris, adopted a collaboration with Syrian artist Hratch Arbach to create the scent of blood.
Born within the japanese Parisian suburb of Gournay-sur-Marne to Armenian dad and mom, Francis recollects a life surrounded by artwork, music, ballet, and varied kinds of sport. He discovered to learn music, performed the piano, and attended the native ballet faculty. “I owe to my dad and mom and my grandparents an important schooling, a way of household, and issues I contemplate to be nice values, reminiscent of humanity and kindness,” he says.
His earliest childhood reminiscence with regards to fragrances, scents or smells are additionally attributed to his household. “The scents of my childhood are positively related to my household, with every member having one thing distinctive about them,” Francis recollects. “My grandfather used to dilute his personal cologne. I by no means found the recipe although – I simply bear in mind him mixing issues and creating his personal mix. I used to be so fascinated by that, and he was a hero to me. My grandmother was an actual grandma: caring, loving. She coated me with kisses, and after all her perfume, Femme by Rochas, which might be imprinted on my pores and skin.
“My late mom had totally different fragrances. She was very trendy for her era. From contemporary fragrances reminiscent of First by Van Cleef & Arpels or Fidji by Guy Laroche, to Mitsouko or the primary perfume by Karl Lagerfeld. My father wore Kouros by YSL.”
Perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Image: Nathalie Baetens
Francis grew up interested by all the pieces and developed a love of handicrafts. After a short-lived profession as a classical ballet dancer, he tried his hand at trend design. But it was at age 14 – after studying a bit within the pages of a shiny French journal about legendary perfumers like Jacques Polge, Françoise Caron, Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Annick Goutal – {that a} seed was planted.
“It was a revelation,” he remembers. “A yr later, once I was 15, my thoughts was made up. I’d turn into a perfumer.”
In 1990, Francis entered the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire in Versailles, and after graduating in 1993 he joined Quest International in Paris. All the whereas he continued his research, acquiring a Master’s diploma from the Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing.
What adopted was an illustrious profession that may see him create quite a few iconic fragrances for among the most notable trend and beauty manufacturers; together with Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, which might go on to turn into one of many world’s best-selling perfumes. Throughout this time, the person who he singles out as a job mannequin – somebody he revered and regarded as much as – is Edmond Roudnistka, the perfumer behind Eau Sauvage by Dior. “I love him for the way in which he raised the artwork of fragrance to a better degree.”
Francis Kurkdjian. Image: François Roelants
Then, in a serendipitous second, his path crossed with that of French-Lebanese businessman and former Ernst & Young accomplice, Mark Chaya. “We met in 2003, and with time, we turned mates. We realised that we shared the identical imaginative and prescient of way of life and definition of luxurious. Plus, we had complimentary skilled and artistic abilities,” Francis says. “We co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2009. His imaginative and prescient and sense of enterprise has been one of many key factors of the success behind Maison Francis Kurkdjian. I’m very happy with what now we have constructed collectively over the previous 12 years.”
And so he needs to be. Today, the area of interest fragrances of Paris-based Maison Francis Kurkdjian – what Francis calls a “wardrobe” of greater than 15 collections – might be present in over 500 high-end boutiques and department shops the world over, in addition to standalone Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutiques. Notable creations embody Aqua Universalis, Amyris (femme and homme), Aqua Vitae, Baccarat Rouge 540, Petit Matin, Grand Soir, and Aqua Celestia.
In May, his model launched a trio of fragrances known as the Cologne forte assortment – with “freshness” taking part in the main function in these new creations.
A staunch defender of the heritage of perfumery, Francis is first and foremost a free-spirited artistic thoughts and a pioneer in some ways. Through his creations, he conveys his modern imaginative and prescient of the perfumer’s occupation and its interpretation in completely trendy fragrances.
When questioned in regards to the course of of making a brand new perfume, the grasp perfumer — who was awarded the celebrated Prix François Coty in 2001 for his lifetime achievements — admits that there’s first a time of reflection throughout which he would envision the artistic territory he desires to discover. “At this stage, it’s not in regards to the scent itself, it’s about its function, its which means. Perfume is actually a mirror of our time in a really distinctive sensory approach,” he explains.
“Once I’ve gathered my inspiration, I seek for a reputation. The identify of the perfume at all times comes first, and earlier than the scent itself. It sums up what I need to say – the emotion I really feel and the story I need to inform. It’s just like the title of a ebook or the identify of a portray. Then I begin writing the system, utilizing the uncooked supplies as phrases. When I’ve a transparent concept on the identify and what to do, the place to go together with my feelings, I create the system within the lab. Although it’s a group effort to fabricate and launch a product, the primary artistic steps are fairly lonely.”
Inspiration, he readily admits, is drawn from tradition, artwork, trend, couture, and his personal private experiences and imaginative and prescient. “Inspiration is the invisible a part of creation. So far, my inspirations haven’t been pushed by uncooked supplies or particular notes.”
À la rose eau de parfum by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Image: Maison Francis Kurkdjian
And how did the time period “perfume wardrobe” come about? He explains: “The concept of the perfume wardrobe is a picture and a parallel with couture and trend. Our perfume collections have been created in the identical spirit, as an actual perfume wardrobe. Our Aqua assortment stands for a vital piece in a single’s wardrobe, a bit like a white shirt, that you may put on for any event. It is contemporary, versatile and genderless. Then there’s the ‘straightforward to put on’ phase with very informal but elegant scents reminiscent of Amyris, Pluriel or À la rose. Our night requirements embody extra dressed-up scents like Grand Soir, our OUD assortment, or Baccarat Rouge 540. Each perfume has its personal olfactive signature for every character.”
The most predictable and apparent of all questions – his favorite and least favorite issues to scent – will get probably the most uncommon reply: “My favorite scent can be the neck of the individual I really like. It is sort of a refuge. And a scent I notably despise can be like everybody, the scent of rubbish within the streets…”
Being a distinct segment perfume home additionally means the creations of Maison Francis Kurkdjian have attraction for a sure sort of discerning buyer. “We are usually not marketing-driven, we’re creatively pushed,” he explains. “I don’t need to please individuals, I need to seduce them with real feelings which might be distinctive and luxurious, by way of extremely qualitative merchandise. I create as a result of I’ve one thing to say. A author writes books, I create scents – it’s my very own approach to specific myself. I’ve famous although that our clients and I share the identical values: a school to be amazed by easy but stunning issues, a sensitivity to aesthetic codes and consideration to element, a way of stability and high quality.”
Boutique Francis Kurkdjian. Image: Maison Francis Kurkdjian
When it involves exclusivity, Maison Francis Kurkdjian can be famend for the very unique bespoke fragrances which might be created for personal shoppers, with quotes ranging from a staggering 20,000 euros.
“My mission once I create bespoke fragrances is to fulfil the client’s wants and goals,” Francis explains. “Custom-made scents are the last word luxurious within the perfume world. Creating a bespoke fragrance is a query of belief and confidentiality, as you share intimate moments and recollections. I develop these unique fragrances in the middle of brainstorming periods that permit me to evaluate the client’s character, setting, tastes, and recollections.”
Like any artist, the legacy he leaves behind sooner or later is of utmost significance. For grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, his aspirations are easy. “As lengthy as my creations are worn, I might be alive.”
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment.
This May may also see the worldwide launch of a trio of fragrances by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, known as the Cologne forte assortment – with “freshness” taking part in the main function in these new creations. According to a sneak peek Prestige acquired of the press materials previous to the launch, “Aqua Universalis Cologne forte is the notion of whiteness pushed to the intense, a pure breath of contemporary air; the sensation, not the scent, of cleanliness. Aqua Vitae Cologne forte symbolises the solar at its peak with a floral blaze crossed by a surge of scorching air. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte is the encounter between the blue hues of the ocean and the sky.”
This story first appeared on Prestige Thailand
Hero picture: Courtesy Maison Francis Kurkdjian; Featured picture: Courtesy François Roelants
