When his try and safe an internship on the Paris Opera Ballet School was unsuccessful, Francis Kurkdjian turned to his different ardour, perfumery. Since then, the world has turn into his stage all the identical – as ‘the nostril’ behind a number of the most iconic fragrances of our time.
He may be well-known for over 40 fragrances created for a number of the greatest trend and beauty manufacturers on this planet – the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Burberry, Versace, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, Narciso Rodriguez and Elizabeth Arden – however if you happen to ask grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian what his proudest achievement is, he doesn’t hesitate for a second. “My olfactory installations. The greatest up to now was within the gardens of Versailles, the place I created out of doors scented candles, scented cleaning soap bubbles and scented water for the fountains.”
Expressing his craft by creativity – and in probably the most unique and surprising method – is on the core of Francis Kurkdjian’s being. “A artistic thoughts is crucial requirement for turning into a good perfumer. The relaxation is about working onerous, and coaching even more durable,” says the person who as soon as recreated the (final) Queen of France, Marie Antoinette’s favorite fragrance. In 2003, Francis additionally partnered with modern French artist Sophie Calle to create the scent of cash, and in 2014, for the Nuit Blanche modern artwork pageant in Paris, adopted a collaboration with Syrian artist Hratch Arbach to create the scent of blood.
Born within the japanese Parisian suburb of Gournay-sur-Marne to Armenian dad and mom, Francis remembers a life surrounded by artwork, music, ballet, and numerous sorts of sport. He realized to learn music, performed the piano, and attended the native ballet college. “I owe to my dad and mom and my grandparents a nice training, a sense of household, and issues I think about to be nice values, similar to humanity and kindness,” he says.
His earliest childhood reminiscence with regards to fragrances, scents or smells are additionally attributed to his household. “The scents of my childhood are undoubtedly related to my household, with every member having one thing distinctive about them,” Francis remembers. “My grandfather used to dilute his personal cologne. I by no means found the recipe although – I simply keep in mind him mixing issues and creating his personal mix. I used to be so fascinated by that, and he was a hero to me. My grandmother was a actual grandma: caring, loving. She coated me with kisses, and after all her perfume, Femme by Rochas, which might be imprinted on my pores and skin.
“My late mom had completely different fragrances. She was very fashionable for her technology. From recent fragrances similar to First by Van Cleef & Arpels or Fidji by Guy Laroche, to Mitsouko or the primary perfume by Karl Lagerfeld. My father wore Kouros by YSL.”
Francis grew up interested in all the pieces and developed a love of handicrafts. After a short-lived profession as a classical ballet dancer, he tried his hand at trend design. But it was at age 14 – after studying a piece within the pages of a shiny French journal about legendary perfumers like Jacques Polge, Françoise Caron, Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Annick Goutal – that a seed was planted. “It was a revelation,” he remembers. “A 12 months later, once I was 15, my thoughts was made up. I’d turn into a perfumer.”
(Image courtesy of Nathalie Baetens)
In 1990, Francis entered the Institut Supérieur International du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire in Versailles, and after graduating in 1993 he joined Quest International in Paris. All the whereas he continued his research, acquiring a Master’s diploma from the Paris Institute of Luxury Marketing.
What adopted was an illustrious profession that may see him create a variety of iconic fragrances for a number of the most notable trend and beauty manufacturers; together with Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, which might go on to turn into one of many world’s best-selling perfumes. Throughout this time, the individual that he singles out as a function mannequin – somebody he revered and seemed as much as – is Edmond Roudnistka, the perfumer behind Eau Sauvage by Dior. “I love him for the way in which he raised the artwork of fragrance to a greater stage.”
Then, in a serendipitous second, his path crossed with that of French-Lebanese businessman and former Ernst & Young companion, Mark Chaya. “We met in 2003, and with time, we became pals. We realised that we shared the identical imaginative and prescient of way of life and definition of luxurious. Plus, we had complementary skilled and artistic expertise,” Francis says. “We co-founded Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2009. His imaginative and prescient and sense of enterprise has been one of many key factors of the success behind Maison Francis Kurkdjian. I’m very pleased with what we have now constructed collectively over the previous 12 years.”
And so he ought to be. Today, the area of interest fragrances of Paris-based Maison Francis Kurkdjian – what Francis calls a “wardrobe” of greater than 15 collections – may be present in over 500 high-end boutiques and malls internationally, in addition to stand-alone Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutiques. Notable creations embrace Aqua Universalis, Amyris (femme and homme), Aqua Vitae, Baccarat Rouge 540, Petit Matin, Grand Soir, and Aqua Celestia. He was additionally awarded the celebrated Prix François Coty in 2001 for his lifetime achievement.
A staunch defender of the heritage of perfumery, Francis is first and foremost a free-spirited artistic thoughts and a pioneer in some ways. Through his creations, he conveys his modern imaginative and prescient of the perfumer’s career and its interpretation in completely fashionable fragrances.
When questioned in regards to the course of of making a new perfume, the grasp perfumer admits that there’s first a time of reflection throughout which he would envision the artistic territory he needs to discover. “At this stage it isn’t in regards to the scent itself, it’s about its function, its that means. Perfume is really a mirror of our time in a very distinctive sensory method,” he explains.
“Once I’ve gathered my inspiration, I seek for a title. The title of the perfume at all times comes first, and earlier than the scent itself. It sums up what I need to say – the emotion I really feel and the story I need to inform. It’s just like the title of a ebook or the title of a portray. Then I begin writing the components, utilizing the uncooked supplies as phrases. When I’ve a clear thought on the title and what to do, the place to go along with my feelings, I create the components within the lab. Although it’s a workforce effort to fabricate and launch a product, the primary artistic steps are somewhat lonely.”
Boutique Francis Kurkdjian
Inspiration, he readily admits, is drawn from tradition, artwork, trend, couture, and his personal private experiences and imaginative and prescient. “Inspiration is the invisible a part of creation. So far, my inspirations haven’t been pushed by uncooked supplies or particular notes.”
And how did the time period “perfume wardrobe” come about? He explains: “The thought of the perfume wardrobe is a picture and a parallel with couture and trend. Our perfume collections have been created in the identical spirit, as a actual perfume wardrobe. Our Aqua assortment stands for an important piece in a single’s wardrobe, a bit like a white shirt, you could put on for any event. It is recent, versatile and genderless. Then there may be the ‘simple to put on’ phase with very informal but elegant scents similar to Amyris, Pluriel or À la rose. Our night requirements embrace extra dressed-up scents like Grand Soir, our OUD assortment, or Baccarat Rouge 540. Each perfume has its personal olfactive signature for every persona.”
The most predictable and apparent of all questions – his favorite and least favorite issues to scent – will get probably the most uncommon reply: “My favourite scent could be the neck of the individual I really like. It is like a refuge. And a scent I notably despise could be like everybody, the scent of rubbish within the streets…”
Being a area of interest perfume home additionally means the creations of Maison Francis Kurkdjian have attraction for a sure type of discerning buyer. “We will not be advertising and marketing pushed, we’re creatively pushed,” he explains. “I don’t need to please individuals, I need to seduce them with real feelings which are distinctive and luxurious, by extremely qualitative merchandise. I create as a result of I’ve one thing to say. A author writes books, I create scents – it’s my very own strategy to specific myself. I’ve famous although that our clients and I share the identical values: a college to be amazed by easy but lovely issues, a sensitivity to aesthetic codes and consideration to element, a sense of steadiness and high quality.”
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Cologne forte assortment
When it involves exclusivity, Maison Francis Kurkdjian can be famend for the very unique bespoke fragrances which are created for personal purchasers, with quotes ranging from a staggering 20,000 euros.
“My mission once I create bespoke fragrances is to satisfy the shopper’s wants and goals,” Francis explains. “Custom-made scents are the last word luxurious within the perfume world. Creating a bespoke fragrance is a query of belief and confidentiality, as you share intimate moments and reminiscences. I develop these unique fragrances in the middle of brainstorming classes that enable me to evaluate the shopper’s persona, atmosphere, tastes, and reminiscences.”
Like any artist, the legacy he leaves behind at some point is of utmost significance. For grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, his aspirations are easy. “As lengthy as my creations are worn, I might be alive.”
This May may even see the worldwide launch of a trio of fragrances by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, known as the Cologne forte assortment – with “freshness” enjoying the main function in these new creations. According to a sneak peek Prestige obtained of the press materials previous to the launch, “Aqua Universalis Cologne forte is the notion of whiteness pushed to the acute, a pure breath of recent air; the sensation, not the scent, of cleanliness. Aqua Vitae Cologne forte symbolizes the solar at its peak with a floral blaze crossed by a surge of sizzling air. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte is the encounter between the blue hues of the ocean and the sky.”
(Images of Francis Kurkdjian: François-Roelants; all different photographs courtesy of Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
This story first appeared in Prestige Thailand.
