Zago Milano Launches Makeup, Outlines Expansion Strategies – WWD

MILAN — Caterina Bartolozzi embodies the Zago Milano lady: cool, sensible and boasting a recent, pure complexion.
The artistic director of the Italian indie magnificence label was all smiles whereas introducing the most recent mission she developed together with her buddy and native influencer Desiree Maldera: a make-up capsule assortment that marks a primary for the model.
Established in 2017 by Gianluca Ottolina and Andrea Zorloni, Zago Milano carved a distinct segment by providing accessible and vegan-friendly under-makeup merchandise, along with skincare.
“Launching make-up means including the ultimate, little piece to the puzzle,” mentioned Bartolozzi, underscoring that the mission additionally goals to mark a “return to normality, to caring for oneself and use lipsticks once more.”

According to Ottolina, tiptoeing into coloration cosmetics was a guess “contemplating the historic second and the way the class was deeply affected by it.” Yet the chief government officer of the corporate believes the transfer will additional enhance model consciousness, additionally fueled by a democratic value positioning.
Retailing at 38 euros, every “Meet me” package is comprised of a lipstick, lip pencil and a make-up remover balm. The capsule provides three nude shades, every marketed on the packaging in response to three totally different moments of the day — breakfast, golden hour and night time.

“The impartial colours are in sync with what Zago stands for,” famous Bartolozzi, pointing to the model’s mission to reinforce the wearer’s personal pure magnificence. Consumers might place a preorder on zagomilano.com ranging from Thursday, whereas subsequent week the vary will probably be accessible on the net retailer of Italy’s perfumery chain Pinalli.

Zago Milano’s make-up capsule assortment. 
Courtesy of Zago Milano

Although Ottolina acknowledged that the mission supplied “a pleasant alternative to entry a phase we by no means explored however that we might draw nearer and consider integrating sooner or later,” the manager highlighted that the primary focus of the corporate will stay on under-makeup and to additional construct experience in that class.
In September, Zago Milano underwent vital modifications, following a spherical of funding that raised over a million euros at first of 2020 and included the Angel Capital Management personal funding agency based by Angelo Moratti, MIP anchor investor and vp of Italian oil refinery firm Saras SpA.
According to Ottolina, the pool of buyers was attracted not solely by the idea of the model but additionally by its know-how and in-house workforce. The firm boasts a brief provide chain as every stage of product growth — from the creation of formulation and manufacturing to packaging and logistics — relies within the Lombardy area to maintain high quality management and sustainable requirements up, in addition to time-to-market and prices aggressive.
“After the funding, we reconsidered our positioning and value factors, we dedicated on closely enhancing our model consciousness and, total, I might say we’ve been much less messy,” admitted Ottolina. For occasion, the corporate rationalized its product assortment, shifting from 70 stockkeeping items to twenty SKUs.
The Zago Milano providing is outlined by multifunctional merchandise priced from 14 euros to 38 euros and aimed toward enhancing the skincare routine or enhancing the efficiency of make-up seems. Best sellers embody the Bella Pronta priming moisturizer, the Il Mio Glow illuminating face cream and the Molto Fresh primer stick.

The model attracts a core goal of girls ages 24 to 31, with an prolonged attain encompassing customers aged 18 to 37. The CEO mentioned there aren’t any plans in the meanwhile to additional broaden the demographic attain — opening additionally to a extra grownup goal, for example — as that might require a shift within the communication and picture of the model.
These two features have been moreover tweaked through the previous 12 months, when the corporate revisited its packaging with popping colours and added the declare “Made in Italy con amore” — or “Made in Italy with love,” in English — which Ottolina mentioned helped customers to raised establish the label as a normal bearer of the Italian magnificence routine.
The modifications particularly boosted the enterprise within the U.S., the place the model has a partnership with the subscription field service FabFitFun.
“We have a foot within the American market, which [is not to be taken for granted] for an Italian startup. Our rivals listed here are all targeted on the home market,” famous Ottolina, who revealed that by the tip of 2021 Zago Milano will launch its personal direct-to-consumer platform within the U.S.
At the second, gross sales generated Stateside account for 30 p.c of complete revenues, which have been 800,000 euros final 12 months.
“We misplaced three months of enterprise in 2020 not solely due to the pandemic…we needed to consciously reset and regroup for the launch in September, which repaid our efforts,” mentioned Ottolina. He candidly mentioned that total, the pandemic didn’t affect the operations of magnificence producers within the nation but it surely considerably affected logistics and “the habits of customers, as their considerations drugged the market: There was a spike in gross sales in March 2020 after which full flatness the next month. It was like a bipolar market.
“But clients change daily,” continued the manager, additionally acknowledging how client consciousness and a focus to elements included in magnificence formulations retains rising. “Their data is altering and I anticipate their curiosity on discovering different varieties of lively elements will probably be one of many drivers sooner or later,” mentioned Ottolina. Incidentally, Zago Milano launched a separate weblog to interact with its neighborhood on these subjects and additional create consciousness across the idea of under-makeup.

Ottolina forecast the corporate will register from two to a few million euros in gross sales this 12 months, relying on the efficiency within the U.S.

Caterina Bartolozzi and Gianluca Ottolina. 
Sofia Brogi/Courtesy of Zago Milano

At the second, Italy alone accounts for the remaining 70 p.c of complete revenues. In phrases of home distribution, Zago Milano is increasing its presence at Rinascente’s outposts, along with being accessible at its personal on-line retailer and at Pinalli. Ottolina praised the native perfumery chain — which has 60 shops right here, along with e-commerce — for being a “nice hub for Italian indie manufacturers,” mentioning different trending names out there distributed by Pinalli, reminiscent of Nabla Cosmetics and Mulac Cosmetics.
But a major worldwide rollout is on the corporate’s agenda. In addition to its personal e-commerce within the U.S., towards the tip of the 12 months Zago Milano is anticipated to launch within the Middle East in partnership with an area “robust retailer,” teased Ottolina.
The firm can also be in early negotiations with a distributor to broaden in Europe — a transfer slated to happen subsequent 12 months. In the second half of 2022, it should debut in China, beginning with a launch on Tmall.
These strikes will contribute to the expansion of the corporate, whose objective is to succeed in gross sales of 25 million euros by the tip of 2023, mentioned the CEO.
“Next 12 months will probably be pivotal. The worldwide vocation is important for us.…If you concentrate on it, there aren’t any main Italian unbiased magnificence manufacturers overseas: We Italians manufacture for everyone however the French are those cashing in,” mentioned Ottolina.
“A con of our nation is that it believes too little in startups,” he continued, underscoring that native indie labels can’t compete with their American counterparts, which are sometimes backed by large budgets and investments.
“Also buyers ought to imagine a bit bit extra on this trade. [There are investments in] third-party producers, however even the final a part of the provision chain can create worth,” he concluded.