Just once you suppose you have mastered the artwork of skincare acids, alongside comes one other one to query all the things you thought you knew. Alongside the most well-liked acids together with glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid and salicylic acid, there are additionally the lesser recognized however none much less efficient choices together with mandelic acid and polyhydroxy acids that may be a greater possibility for sure pores and skin situations. Azelaic acid is someplace in between. It’s a standard sufficient ingredient that is discovered in lots of mainstream skincare merchandise. But there’s not as a lot of a highlight on it as, say, hyaluronic acid, which implies many people are left confused as to what precisely it’s, and why we must always embody it in our regimes. Here, we requested Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme MD MBChB MSc, founder & medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic and extremely skilled aesthetic medication physician, to reply all our questions and clear up all the things we have to learn about azelaic acid.
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What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that’s produced from yeast inside wheat and barley. When it involves skincare merchandise, nonetheless, azelaic acid is often chemically engineered in a lab to make sure it is steady and as efficient as potential. What are the advantages of azelaic acid?
According to Dr Ejikeme, azelaic acid is a extra light exfoliant than different alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), together with glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids, which makes it a sensible choice for dry or delicate pores and skin. “It’s one of many few topicals that’s secure to make use of throughout being pregnant and breastfeeding, permitting for girls to proceed treating their zits or rosacea which might flare throughout this era,” she explains.AS nicely as its exfoliating advantages, azelaic acid has antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties and additionally it is a tyrosinase inhibitor, which implies it reduces melanin manufacturing inside the pores and skin.
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What pores and skin situations may benefit from azelaic acid?
“Because of its antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties, it is helpful in treating zits and rosacea,” advises Dr Ejikeme. “Plus, as a tyrosinase inhibitor, it will also be used to deal with hyperpigmentation and darkish spots.” AS a mild various to different acids, azelaic acid is the proper alternative for zits victims or anybody who experiences pigmentation who additionally has delicate pores and skin. However, as a result of it’s gentler, it is probably not your best option you probably have extreme zits and your dermatologist might advocate a stronger skincare acid or stronger topical therapy.Can you employ different skincare substances whereas utilizing merchandise containing azelaic acid?
With so many energetic substances being utilized in skincare formulation, in addition to a multi-step skincare regime changing into ubiquitous, it is by no means been so essential to contemplate whether or not sure substances are secure to make use of in tandem with others. After all, mixing or layering the incorrect substances might end in redness, irritation or peeling pores and skin. “Azelaic acid blends nicely with many different pores and skin substances however it’s exfoliating so take care if you’re utilizing different acids,” warns Dr Ejikeme. “To keep away from over exfoliating the pores and skin stick to at least one exfoliating ingredient and enhance slowly except suggested in a different way by your physician.””It’s additionally good to mix azelaic acid with different soothing and brightening substances like niacinamide or antioxidants,” she says, which is particularly helpful for anybody experiencing areas of hyperpigmentation.
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While SPF ought to already be an integral a part of our on a regular basis skincare regime, Dr Ejikeme explains that it is much more essential to recollect to use it if you’re utilizing azelaic acid – or any skincare acid, for that matter.”Although SPF ought to be a part of each skincare routine, it’s important when utilizing acids similar to azelaic acid because the pores and skin may be extra delicate to the solar.”Are there any unwanted side effects?
Like any exfoliating ingredient, there’s the prospect that pores and skin might turn out to be irritated or crimson. “When beginning an acid, I often advocate you go gradual and solely begin one energetic at a time to stop irritation to the pores and skin,” recommends Dr Ejikeme. “However, of all of the acids, azelaic acid is often nicely tolerated with minimal unwanted side effects.”Find out extra in regards to the totally different skincare acids and whether or not or not they’re proper on your pores and skin.
